Highlights

• Stand before a horseman statue whose subject was assassinated — and whose sculptor, legend says, took his own life over a missing hat

• Trace how a boy's scuffle at a fountain set off riots that forced an empire out of Belgrade

• Step inside a church lit by chandeliers soldiers welded from spent shell casings and swords on the battlefield

• Sit in a kafana that has kept its "temporary" name for over a hundred and thirty years because a church refused to share its own

• Follow the fortress walls where four empires built on top of each other and soldiers once reported seeing headless ghosts in the tunnels