Now, here’s a question: Who is Assisi’s patron saint? Most people would assume it’s Saint Francis, but while Saint Francis is one of Italy’s patron saints, the actual patron saint of Assisi is San Rufino. In this square is the impressive Cathedral of San Rufino, the town’s cathedral and the seat of the local bishop. This church is named after Saint Rufino, who was Assisi’s first bishop in the third century. He’s credited with converting the town from its pagan Roman roots to Christianity. After his martyrdom, he was buried here, and while the current structure dates back to the eleventh century, San Rufino’s legacy lives on. Take a look at the façade. You’ll notice its heavy Romanesque style with solid columns and arches, topped with a later addition—a triangular Gothic feature. But apart from that, the church boasts one of the finest and most authentic Romanesque façades in Italy. Pay attention to the carvings at the base. One of them shows a lion devouring a Christian martyr, a reminder of the early Christians’ bravery, like that of San Rufino himself. Now, head inside. The interior is a blend of seventeenth-century Baroque and eighteenth-century Neoclassical elements. Near the entrance, there are a few key points of interest. To your left, you’ll find two statues—one of Saint Francis and the other of Saint Clare—created in eighteen eighty-eight. This cathedral was the main church during Saint Francis’s time and played a significant role in his life. Look to your right, and you’ll see the old baptismal font, topped with a black iron grate. For over a thousand years, Assisi’s children have been baptized here, including St Francis himself. A few years later, another important figure was baptized here—Clare, the daughter of a nobleman. We will hear more about her as we make our way to our next stop. Take note of the glass panels on the floor in the nave. These reveal the foundations of a ninth-century church that stood here before this one, and beneath those lie even older remains—possibly from a Roman temple, as early Christian churches were often built on top of ancient pagan sites. Before you leave, take a look near the church’s grand arched entry. You’ll find a set of steps leading down to an old Roman cistern. This cistern, with its beautifully preserved stonework, was used as an emergency water source during medieval sieges. The Romans were master engineers, and their work is still on display here. Finally, if you visit the church’s crypt, you’ll find the Diocesan Museum, which showcases ruins from earlier structures as well as centuries of cathedral art. The highlight is the Roman-style sarcophagus directly beneath the main altar. This holds the remains of San Rufino, Assisi’s patron saint and the man who brought Christianity to this town. Now, exit the church, and follow the map to reach the Basilica of Saint Clare. As you walk you can listen to the story of Saint Francis and Saint Clare. Or if the streets are crowded, you can wait till you reach the Basilica and find a quiet spot where you can listen to the next stop.