Palermo's cathedral started as a church, became an Arab mosque, then returned to a cathedral — and a Quranic verse carved into one of its columns survived the Inquisition untouched. This self-guided audio walking tour takes you along the Cassaro, one of Europe's oldest streets, from the Teatro Massimo opera house to the sea. You'll hear how a Caravaggio was stolen by the Mafia and possibly eaten by pigs, taste street food with thousand-year-old Arab roots, and stand inside a chapel where three civilisations built a single ceiling together. Start whenever suits you, pause for markets and sfincione, resume when you're ready — no group, no schedule.