The plump, fearless pigeons fluttering all around are the sign that you have arrived at Baščaršija Square. The name Baščaršija means “main market,” and it dates back to the fifteenth century, when the Ottoman governor Isa-Beg Ishaković founded Sarajevo’s marketplace right here. Merchants and travelers from across the empire once gathered in this very spot, trading spices, leather, metalwork, and lots of gossip. This square is the heart of Sarajevo and has been the city’s meeting point for centuries. Due to the hoards of pigeons here, the locals also call it the Pigeon Square. Can you see that landmark in the center of the square? That is the Sebilj Fountain. According to local legend, the water from this fountain is what keeps these pigeons so energetic. In fact, a local saying goes, “Don’t chase the pigeons away. They’re part of the bazaar family.” This octagonal fountain, carved from wood and topped with a small spire, was originally built in the eighteenth century, during Ottoman rule. It was designed for the generous purpose of offering free drinking water to anyone passing through. The original structure was lost in a fire, and the fountain you see here was rebuilt in the late nineteenth century, during the Austro-Hungarian period. According to a beloved local legend, anyone who drinks water from the Sebilj is destined to return to Sarajevo someday. I totally believe this. Once this city grows on you, it doesn’t really let you go. So, go ahead and take a sip. This square you are standing in has been through difficult times. During the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, much of Baščaršija was nearly demolished in the name of modernization. Later, in the late twentieth century, it endured heavy shelling. Yet the Sebilj still stands, unchanged in spirit, and continues to be Sarajevo’s favorite meeting point. Even today, locals say, “Let’s meet at the Sebilj.” Take a moment to explore this square. Breathe in the deep aroma of strong Bosnian coffee. And that smoky scent in the air? That’s ćevapi, Sarajevo’s most irresistible temptation. But let’s save that for later. Ready to head to the next stop? Follow the map and I will meet you there.